Silk is one of the most prized fabrics in South Asian formal fashion — used by leading designers for everything from bridal lehengas to festive kurtas. But not all silk is the same. When you shop for ethnic formal wear, you will frequently encounter two distinct types: pure silk and raw silk. They come from the same source but look, feel, and behave very differently. Understanding the difference will help you choose the right fabric for the right occasion — and ensure you know exactly what you are buying.
Where Does Silk Come From?
All silk — pure or raw — originates from the cocoons spun by silkworm larvae, primarily the Bombyx mori silkworm. Silkworms feed on mulberry leaves and spin cocoons of continuous silk filament. Sericulture — the cultivation of silkworms for silk production — has been practised for over 5,000 years, originating in ancient China and spreading across the Silk Road to South Asia and beyond.
The key difference between pure silk and raw silk lies not in origin but in processing.
What is Pure Silk?
Pure silk (also called mulberry silk or processed silk) is made by carefully unravelling the silkworm cocoon to extract the continuous filament thread. These filaments are then reeled together, twisted, and woven into a smooth, uniform fabric. During processing, the cocoons are boiled to soften the natural gum (sericin) that holds the filament together. This sericin is largely removed — a process called degumming — leaving behind the pure silk protein fibre, resulting in an extraordinarily smooth, lustrous, lightweight fabric.
Properties of pure silk:
- High, almost liquid-like sheen and lustre
- Very smooth, soft surface
- Lightweight and breathable
- Naturally temperature-regulating
- Drapes beautifully and fluidly
- Takes dye deeply and vibrantly
What is Raw Silk?
Raw silk is silk that has not been fully degummed — meaning some or most of the natural sericin has been retained. This gives raw silk its characteristic features: a dull, matte finish instead of a glossy sheen, a slightly rough, textured surface, and visible irregularities or slubs (little knots and lumps) in the weave. These slubs are not defects — they are a natural result of the production process and are considered a mark of authenticity.
Properties of raw silk:
- Matte or low-lustre finish
- Textured surface with natural slubs
- Heavier and stiffer than processed silk
- Strong and durable — the sericin acts as a natural stiffener
- Holds embroidery particularly well due to its firmer structure
- Generally less expensive than pure silk
Raw Silk vs Pure Silk in South Asian Fashion
Pure silk is the fabric of uncompromising luxury. When a designer wants a fluid, glamorous silhouette — a draped sari, a flowing anarkali, or a bridal lehenga that moves like water — pure silk is the choice. Designers like Fahad Hussayn, Saira Shakira, and Farah Talib Aziz are known for working with pure silk in their flagship couture collections. You can explore our full range of silk dresses and suits here.
Raw silk is the fabric of refined, understated elegance. Its matte texture and structured drape make it ideal for formal suits, sherwanis, and occasion wear where the garment needs to hold its shape and carry heavy embroidery without losing definition. Browse our raw silk collection to see how beautifully this fabric carries embroidery and formal silhouettes.
Price Difference
Pure silk is generally more expensive than raw silk due to the additional processing steps required. Premium pure silk suit fabric can cost significantly more per metre than raw silk of comparable quality. However, for heavily embroidered formal pieces, raw silk often commands high prices due to the quality of the embellishments rather than the base fabric alone.
Care and Maintenance
- Dry cleaning is recommended for both, especially for embroidered pieces
- Hand washing in cold water with a gentle detergent is possible for unembroidered pieces — never machine wash
- Never wring silk — press gently between towels to remove water
- Iron on a very low silk setting with a pressing cloth, or use steam
- Store away from direct sunlight — both silk types can fade with prolonged UV exposure
- Keep away from perfume and deodorant — alcohol and chemicals can permanently stain silk
How to Tell the Difference When Shopping
When shopping in person, run the fabric between your fingers. Pure silk will feel very smooth, almost cool to the touch. Raw silk will feel slightly rougher, with detectable texture and small slubs. Pure silk will have a brighter, more mirror-like sheen. Raw silk will have a softer, warmer, more diffuse glow. When shopping online at Rang-e-Khaas, fabric composition is noted in product descriptions to help you identify exactly what you are buying.
Frequently Asked Questions: Raw Silk vs Pure Silk
Q: Is raw silk lower quality than pure silk?
No — raw silk is simply a different product, not an inferior one. It is preferred by many designers and customers precisely because of its textured aesthetic. For structured formal wear, raw silk is often the superior choice.
Q: Can I wash silk at home?
Unembellished silk can be hand washed in cold water with a gentle detergent. However, embroidered silk formal wear should always be dry cleaned. When in doubt, dry clean.
Q: Does pure silk shrink?
Yes, pure silk can shrink if exposed to heat or hot water. Always wash in cold water and dry flat away from direct heat or sunlight.
Q: Why does my silk suit feel rough in some areas?
This is most likely raw silk, where the natural slubs create surface variation. This is entirely normal and a characteristic of the fabric, not a defect.
Q: Which is better for bridal wear — raw silk or pure silk?
Both are used extensively in bridal fashion. Pure silk is preferred for fluid, draped bridal outfits where movement and sheen are priorities. Raw silk is preferred for structured bridal suits and lehengas where the silhouette must hold its shape under heavy embroidery.
Q: How do I identify real silk vs synthetic imitations?
The most reliable home test is the burn test: genuine silk burns slowly, self-extinguishes, and leaves a fine ash that crumbles easily, smelling faintly of burning hair. Synthetic fabrics melt and leave hard, plastic-like residue. Always perform this test on a hidden scrap, not the garment itself.
More Fabric & Seasonal Guides
Ready to shop? Browse our raw silk dresses.